Bangkok is a city of contradictions: A buzzing metropolis with a laid back attitude, elegant temples and palaces stand side by side with Romanesque concrete skyscrapers and charming wooden houses.

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Getting around Bangkok is a challenge. It may help to think of the city as an isosceles triangle with the base abutting the S curve of the Chao Phraya River and the apex, pointing east, ending on Sukhumvit Road, somewhere around Soi 40. Sukhumvit, at the apex of this conceptual triangle, was once a residential neighborhood.

In the last two decades, it has developed into a district of hotels, shops, nightclubs, and restaurants while retaining some of its residential atmosphere. Westward, toward the Chao Phraya, are spacious foreign embassy compounds, corporate offices, and modern international hotels. To some, this is Bangkok's center, symbolized by the Erawan shrine, where everyday Thais worship and traditional dancers perform for a small fee. South of the shrine is Bangkok's largest green area, Lumphini Park, an oasis in an urban jungle.

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Go a bit farther, and you'll reach the older sections of Bangkok. On the southern flank runs Silom Road, a shopping and financial district; Suriwongse (pronounced Suriwong) Road, with more hotels, parallels it. Between them lies the entertainment district of Patpong. Continue farther and you reach the riverbank and four of Bangkok's leading hotels: the Royal Orchid Sheraton, the Oriental, the Shangri-La, and the Peninsula (across the river).

Going west along Rama I Road in the center of the triangle, you pass the Siam Square shopping area and the National Stadium. Continue south toward the Hualamphong Railway Station, and between it and the river lies Chinatown, a maze of streets with restaurants, goldsmiths, small warehouses, and repair shops. In the northern part of the triangle, moving westward, you pass through various markets before reaching government buildings, the Victory Monument, Chitlada Palace, the Dusit Zoo, the National Assembly, the National Library, and the river.

Slightly south of this route, you can go west from the Democracy Monument to the National Museums and Theatre, and then south to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Keo. Knowing your exact destination, its direction, and approximate distance are important in negotiating tuk-tuk (three-wheeled taxi) fares and planning your itinerary. Note: many sights have no precise written address and the spelling of road names changes from one map or street sign to the next. Above all, remember that Bangkok is enormous, and distances are great; it can take a half hour or more to walk between two seemingly adjacent sites. You may also get stuck in traffic jams. Here's our highly selective list of the very best things to see and do in Bangkok.

Bangkok Attraction

With its many temples, palaces, museums and markets, Thailand's capital requires a minimum of three days to appreciate the very least of its sites, though a week would give serious travellers a little more time to soak up more of Bangkok's wonders.

Rattanakosin - One of Thailand's Jewels of the Mekong includes the Grand Palace and Wat Po - click here - for a feature on Rattanakosin.

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo - Featuring some of the most spectacular architecture in Southeast Asia, this huge compound near Sanam Luang occupies an area of about one square mile. The palace and temple were the inspiration of the first king of the Chakri dynasty upon moving his capital across the river from Thonburi. Begun in 1782, the palace buildings are highly decorated with unique architectural details. The royal temple of Wat Phra Kaeo houses the Emerald Buddha, the most sacred Buddha image in Thailand.

Wat Pho - One of Bangkok's oldest and largest temples, Wat Pho, to the rear of the Grand Palace, was inaugerated by King Rama I nearly 200 years ago as Thailand's first university. Today it is best known as an international study centre for Thai massage technique and home of the 46-metre long, 15-metre high gold-plated Reclining Buddha statue, which has the 108 auspicious signs of the Buddha depicted in mother-of-pearl inlaid upon its soles.

Jim Thompson's Thai House - Jim Thompson was an American who came to live in Thailand at the end of WWII, after service in the OSS in Asia. He made Bangkok his home and set about turning the Thai silk industry into a multi-million dollar export business. His remarkable Thai-style house, near the National Stadium, is now a museum filled with the rare Asian antiques he spent his life collecting

Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) - Despite its name, Wat Arun is best seen at sunset when its bright white, 79-metre tall prang takes on a beautiful golden glow, sparkling as the light hits the many gilded areas. Set on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, opposite the Grand Palace, it can be reached by road, or by ferry crossing from Tha Tien Pier, near Wat Pho.

Wat Benchamabophit (The Marble Temple) - Constructed during the reign of King Rama V, near Chitralada Palace, Wat Bop, as it is commonly known, is best visited in the early morning to hear the monks chanting inside the chapel. The interior of the main building is magnificently decorated with cross beams of lacquer and gold. Bronze Buddha images lines the walls of the large inner courtyard.

Wat Suthat - Next to the giant swing on Banrung Maung Road, Wat Suthat is best known for its collection of gilded Buddha images in the Viharn and the exquisite murals in the main building dating from the reign of King Rama III (1824-1851).

Vimanmek Teakwood Mansion - The world's largest golden teak building, this three-storey, 81-room wooden palace is located behind Bangkok's National Assembly. In the same compound are buildings containing some of the collections of the royal family, including displays of HM King Bhumiphol's photography, HM Queen Sirikit's collection of rural handicrafts, portraits, old clocks, ancient cloth, royal carriages, and the paraphernalia of rank.

Day excursions from Bangkok

Ayuthaya
The ancient capital of Thailand between 1350 and 1767, Ayuthaya was once proclaimed the Venice of the East by Western travellers visiting it at the height of its beauty. However, the city was robbed and razed by the Burmese, leaving only a few ruined monuments to its four hundred years of greatness.

Ayuthaya has many sites of historical and religious significance. Among the most impressive are: Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon built in 1357; Wat Phanan Choeng which predates Ayuthaya becoming the Thai capital; Wat Mahathat built in 1384 with its tall spire; and the nearby Wat Rat Burana. The Viharn Phra Mongkhon Bophit houses one of Thailand's largest bronze Buddha images - one of the very few not destroyed by the Burmese. Many important relics can also be found in the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum.

One of the easiest and most comfortable ways to visit this ancient capital is by the boat/coach excursions operated by the river cruise boat companies - providing just enough time to appreciate the ancient ruins, stupas, temples, and magnificent Buddha images. The more dedicated tourist may wish to spend one or two nights Ayuthaya. The city, just 85 km from Bangkok, can be reached easily by local bus or train.

Bang Pa-In Summer Palace - Once the country residence of every Ayuthaya monarch after King Prasat Thong, the summer palace fell into eighty years of disuse when the capital was moved to Bangkok. King Rama IV had the palace compound expanded in the 19th century, and his son, King Chulalongkorn constructed the royal palace as it is now seen today.

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market - A photo opportunity and popular tourist attraction, the floating market is a colourful collection of small boats on the klong (canal) with tradionally dressed ladies selling fruits, vegetables and many other items. Best visited early in the morning, the floating market is about an hour outside of Bangkok, and on a full day trip is best combined with either the River Kwai, or the Rose Garden.

Rose Garden Country Resort & Cultural Show - Performances of various Thai sports and entertainment, including Thai folk dancing, Thai boxing, cock fighting and sword fighting demonstrations are the highlights of the Thai Village Cultural Show at this beautiful 60-acre resort, located about 32 kilometres from Bangkok.

Samut Prakan Crocodile Farm - 30 km southeast of Bangkok, this claims to be the world's largest crocodile breeding farm. These monstrous reptiles are reared for their skin and flesh which is considered a delicacy at certain restaurants. The highlight of the day is the famous crocodile wrestling show. The farm also has a small zoo, a dinosaur museum, and multivision slide presentation on extinct animals.

Kanchanaburi
Though it is possible to visit Kanchanaburi for a day, it is preferable to spend at least one night in the town in order to best explore the area. Although there are modern hotels in Kanchanaburi town, the best way to experience the beauty of the river is to stay on one of the floating bamboo rafts.

The Bridge on the River Kwai - The famous bridge, which is still used by the train, pedestrians and motor bikes, is the best known symbol of the 415 km railway line. An estimated 16,000 Allied prisoners of war and 90,000 forced labourers from Singapore, Malaya, Java, Vietnam, Burma and Thailand are thought to have perished in its construction. There are two War Cemeteries, one close to the town, the other - more peaceful, and consequently, more moving - at Chongkai, across the river.

The Erawan Falls - 67 km from the town are some of the most beautiful falls in Thailand. A three hour boat trip takes you to the Sai Yok Falls, and includes a visit to the impressive limestone cave of Tham Daowadung.

Hell Fire Pass - In the space of 13 weeks in 1943, prisoners working night and day excavated this 110 metre long, 17.5 metre deep and 10 metre wide railway cutting from solid rock. Some of the worst Japanese atrocities occurred here: 68 young men were beaten to death for being too exhausted, or too sick to work. The place came by its name because the lamps used for lighting during the night gave it a hellish appearance.

The pass, located near kilometre marker 66 on the Sai Yok-Thong Pha Phum Road is now the site of a Memorial Museum, opened in April 1998 by Australian Prime Minister John Howard, under the auspices of the Australian War Graves Commission.

The JEATH War Museum - On the banks of the Mae Klong River inside Wat Chai Chumphon, this museum tells the story of the atrocious living conditions imposed on the prisoners, with chilling exhibits and photography depicting the suffering endured by them. (JEATH stands for Japan, England, America, Australia, Thailand and Holland).